Masseria Torre Maizza
The walkway leading to the outdoor pool and deck area. We were there near the end of the season in late October. Photo by Gloria J. Chang.
Oh my fucking God. (Pardon-moi mon japonais).
As a writer, I must be true to what unfolded. How else for you readers to be true to my words? And the above words were exactly what tumbled out of my mouth before I could stop them, when I unlocked the door to my gorgeous room. Or rather, suite. Black double doors opened into a foyer (marble?). To my right, a small sitting area with a fireplace – wood and kindling all set for a cozy fire. To my left, a bed with just the right firmness, a writing desk for my laptop, a fridge fully stocked. Then the huge wardrobe and a door that led to a washroom built for a lady of leisure. It was late. I was tired. I put on one of the two lush robes hanging in the closet. And with my limited (non-existent) Italian, I called reception asking how to turn the water on for a hot shower in a giant soaker tub. The full tub experience would have to wait for another night. Agua, I said. No comprehension on the other end. Acqua? Turn on. Yes, they said. Right away. Shortly after, a man arrived with fresh bottles of water. Oh, no, I say, leading him into my washroom – did I mention it was fit for a queen? How do I turn on the shower? He doesn’t understand. He seems to be backing away. No, no, that’s not what I mean! I make motions of turning on the non-existent tap. I mime water coming out of the huge shower head. Ah! he says and pulls a tiny knob hidden by the shower curtain. A hot shower! after a full day, morning til night, visiting wineries and wandering through Alberobello, a pretty town full of trulli, the traditional Puglian white stone huts with their conical roofs.
But what exactly caused the words of punctuated profanity to leave my lips? Between the washroom and the huge wardrobe was another black door. I opened. I looked. I saw.
A small pool all to myself, a palm tree to look at, stars above. I’m no longer religious, but this was definitely a heaven.
Not only does the masseria feel very spa-like being out in the country, lush with greenery and flowers – and about a half hour’s walk to the Adriatic Sea and the town of Savelletri – it has one of the best breakfast menus and buffets. You’ll need a car to get to, from, and around.
Slideshow photos by Gloria J. Chang.